Thursday, August 26, 2010

Every year

It seems every year they have the US Open at Huntington and there isn't great surf. I heard the surf report and said to myself, "there is going to be a lot of the 'Huntington Hop' going on.

For those that don't know its the style of surfing that the Huntington boys have been doing for decades. When the surf is a bit sloppy they bounce and create a bit more wave than is really there. Helps make the most of the ride.

I am not good at that and just ride it in. This week after the contest is long gone and its supper hot and full moon, there is good surf. For the boys that stayed around a while, its perfect.

The contests have to be done on certain days, not just according to the good waves. Some times there is nothing really much to surf, of course for the pro, its his job to make it anyway.

Every year with the bad surf of summer people try to learn to ride a board. They don't know that the real waves are in the fall and winter. As a result they stop by the fall just as the real waves kick in. That's when I get back out there. I want to go to beach tomorrow, just for fun. I have to go to the beach in the summer, every year.

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