Thursday, August 26, 2010

Every year

It seems every year they have the US Open at Huntington and there isn't great surf. I heard the surf report and said to myself, "there is going to be a lot of the 'Huntington Hop' going on.

For those that don't know its the style of surfing that the Huntington boys have been doing for decades. When the surf is a bit sloppy they bounce and create a bit more wave than is really there. Helps make the most of the ride.

I am not good at that and just ride it in. This week after the contest is long gone and its supper hot and full moon, there is good surf. For the boys that stayed around a while, its perfect.

The contests have to be done on certain days, not just according to the good waves. Some times there is nothing really much to surf, of course for the pro, its his job to make it anyway.

Every year with the bad surf of summer people try to learn to ride a board. They don't know that the real waves are in the fall and winter. As a result they stop by the fall just as the real waves kick in. That's when I get back out there. I want to go to beach tomorrow, just for fun. I have to go to the beach in the summer, every year.

Thursday, August 19, 2010

Back to the drawing board

I have still been recovering from my procedure earlier this summer. It was not a success so I can't get back in the water just yet.

I couldn't not be more disappointed. I have been doing my walks and my belly dancing route. As for the rest it will have to wait. Not that I really mind since I like to go to the beach when its empty.

As for my dancing it makes me happy and I love that I can dance alone in belly dancing. I give it up to the women that dance in troupes and trios. For me I have dance alone and just bust a move.

In the last week I printed out my book project and made it into a book for my friend. After all this time it was so great to see it in a book form. As for now i want to keep up my dancing. It does inspire my writing. This summer has not been by the beach, its been in the house listening to music on YouTube. I feel like a spoiled teenager.

The good things, I have still been walking my dogs and still dancing. Since I have not been on my board it will be back to the drawing board for me. Not bad, it could be worse.

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Ocean

Last Sunday I was able to go down to the beach. I haven't been in so long. When asked which way I wanted to walk on the shore line, my answer was, straight. As into the ocean.

I couldn't wait for that first step into the water, the shock of it being so cold. There is nothing like it. It was in the afternoon when the temperature difference is bigger. In the early am it almost feels warm, since you are cold and so is the water.

I have always been a beach girl. When I lived with my father land locked for a summer, I was so blue. I could stand having the ocean be a whole state away. I still sunbathed like normal, and everyone thought I was crazy.

The ocean has been more of a close friend that I have to visit to keep up with. In the summer I get disturbed by all the visitors. I get spoiled in the winter when its just the surfers and hardly anyone else for miles. It gets to the norm to have miles of sand to look at in either direction. The sand is cold but still comforting and easy to mold into my shape. With my Ipod and something to read....bliss. My friend always agrees with me. So easy to get a long with, why wouldn't I go back every week? Its been too long and I promise to get back soon.