The search for a new board can be daunting for a beginner. While I have been using a board from a friend it was not well suited for my needs. I needed a longer board with good size rails that would float me better and was easier to handle.
I found a starting point place when I was looking at Surfline.com with the ‘Sacred’, the shaper show. I thought it was going to be closer, but going down to Del Mar was not that far and something I could do in an afternoon. Never having been to these fair grounds I was not sure where exactly it would be, but seeing a collection of cars, all with surfboard racks on them, knew I had found the spot.
The show was in a smaller room and was quite hot after a while. So it was a good thing there was beer around. There were so many styles and sizes of boards, it was quite over whelming. The balsa wood ones with foam interior was such a nice combination of new ideas and old school ecstatic. Some boards had coloring that looked like a paint job on a car, can we say ‘Pimp My Board’? It was a great look.
Then there were the more recognizable names of Hobbie and Rusty, which is great and they had amazing boards as well. Everyone was so helpful and really took time to explain things to us. Even with all this information it was so hard to decide. This may not have been a good idea after all. It was like going to a car show with all the new ‘08 models and concept cars, when what you need is a white truck.
In the end I had to go to a regular surf shop and get I bought a 9’6” board from Robert August. It is an epoxy board, with three scags, the middle one is adjustable. It is blue and yellow and white striped. (Yes I am still a girl and I care what it looks like, there was the same board in another color combo, I didn’t buy it.)
While I am grateful that my friend loaned me his board and I was able to start getting out there with out having to spend a lot, it was time for me to get my own board. I went out the next day; I hadn’t even owned the board for a full 24 hours. I went with a group of friends to Doheny. Yes it was low tide and it was a bit like being in the ‘kiddy pool’, but it was perfect to get used to my new board.
The board rode nicely and yes I need to build up more wax on it, it was easier to paddle out on, much easier that what I had been using. I felt a lot more confident on this board and made attempts to get up. I wasn’t that successful, but I am not giving up! I know in the coming months I will get well acquainted with my board. It was a great first time out and I’m looking forward to the next time. :-)
Saturday, December 29, 2007
Friday, December 21, 2007
Sundays
It can be hard to discribe to someone who has not been bitten by the surfing bug, what it is and how much it becomes apart of your life. It may seem silly to think that the taste of saltwater is missed and even the post-nasal drip that comes with surfing.
While I am no professional surfer and I have not been 'in-to' the sport all my life, I still have the same passion for it as anyone else. I love the ocean and feeling my board under me as I paddle out.
The time I spend at the beach one Sundays helps me to make it through the week. It helps me put things into perspective and I enjoy having some time to myself. The rest of my time is spent helping out, cooking and cleaning for others. Sunday is my time, time to get the board out and leave the troubles and worries behind.
If I could I would surf everyday and really improve my skills, but as it is my life has far more demands on my time. Not that I am upset about it, I like my life, most of the time. As I dry off after coming out of the water I read things to help me. I get ready for the next week. Letting the sun and wind wash over me.
My last vacation I had no plans to surf or was near the water. I found when I came back home I needed to get out in the water and feel the sand in my toes, right away.
As a child, you could not get me out of the water. I was always saying, "five more minutes." I have even missed meals, since I didn't notice it was time to eat. I was too worried about the next wave to catch.
Once about ten years ago I stood in the shore line and the rip current gave my leggs a massage. Ever since then I have really thought of it as therapy. Some times are parents would tell us that we needed to get some fresh air and get out of the house. It is so true and so I need to be in the ocean and get my vitamin "sea".
To me the ocean is like good friend, some one you have a close and warm relationship with. Some one that will never hurt you, and will be there for you when you need them most. (Yes, I know the implications of this statement, sometimes you can't say it with out saying it.) So this Sunday I need to go visit my good friend.
While I am no professional surfer and I have not been 'in-to' the sport all my life, I still have the same passion for it as anyone else. I love the ocean and feeling my board under me as I paddle out.
The time I spend at the beach one Sundays helps me to make it through the week. It helps me put things into perspective and I enjoy having some time to myself. The rest of my time is spent helping out, cooking and cleaning for others. Sunday is my time, time to get the board out and leave the troubles and worries behind.
If I could I would surf everyday and really improve my skills, but as it is my life has far more demands on my time. Not that I am upset about it, I like my life, most of the time. As I dry off after coming out of the water I read things to help me. I get ready for the next week. Letting the sun and wind wash over me.
My last vacation I had no plans to surf or was near the water. I found when I came back home I needed to get out in the water and feel the sand in my toes, right away.
As a child, you could not get me out of the water. I was always saying, "five more minutes." I have even missed meals, since I didn't notice it was time to eat. I was too worried about the next wave to catch.
Once about ten years ago I stood in the shore line and the rip current gave my leggs a massage. Ever since then I have really thought of it as therapy. Some times are parents would tell us that we needed to get some fresh air and get out of the house. It is so true and so I need to be in the ocean and get my vitamin "sea".
To me the ocean is like good friend, some one you have a close and warm relationship with. Some one that will never hurt you, and will be there for you when you need them most. (Yes, I know the implications of this statement, sometimes you can't say it with out saying it.) So this Sunday I need to go visit my good friend.
Friday, December 14, 2007
Work Out
My arm aches and my back too. I don’t say this to complain and whine. It just happens to be the truth. I know I am getting stronger. It’s a good ache; it means the muscles are working.
Some things we need to do in a group. Such as sharing a big meal, its’ always nice to see your work enjoyed by others. Nothing gives us that immediate satisfaction as cooking and seeing your family and friends eat it up and smile afterwards.
Other things we can only do for ourselves, like take a walk to burn off the calories and work out. Sure we have help and we have other surfers in the water. In the end, you are the only one on the board and no one can paddle out but you. Every one has to carry his or her board.
It is one of the great things in life though, the salt water, the breeze and the feel of the water around your hands. Some times we think we need to share this, and we can to a certain extent. If our mate or boy friend, girlfriend surfs with us.
We have to work out our own problems alone as well. It’s great if you have someone to help you, but for us women it seems that men don’t always get us and we still feel like we have to work out things on our own, and we do. It is frustrating though and we wish guys would say the right thing and help us feel better and really understand what we are going through. It would be great if they would take us in their arms and tell us everything is going to be all right. Sometimes they don’t and they don’t say the right things and we don’t feel any better. So we have to work it out alone and we have to solve our problems alone. Don’t feel too bad, so do they.
That ache you feel, it just means you are getting stronger. I should know. I am getting stronger and it hurts too.
Some things we need to do in a group. Such as sharing a big meal, its’ always nice to see your work enjoyed by others. Nothing gives us that immediate satisfaction as cooking and seeing your family and friends eat it up and smile afterwards.
Other things we can only do for ourselves, like take a walk to burn off the calories and work out. Sure we have help and we have other surfers in the water. In the end, you are the only one on the board and no one can paddle out but you. Every one has to carry his or her board.
It is one of the great things in life though, the salt water, the breeze and the feel of the water around your hands. Some times we think we need to share this, and we can to a certain extent. If our mate or boy friend, girlfriend surfs with us.
We have to work out our own problems alone as well. It’s great if you have someone to help you, but for us women it seems that men don’t always get us and we still feel like we have to work out things on our own, and we do. It is frustrating though and we wish guys would say the right thing and help us feel better and really understand what we are going through. It would be great if they would take us in their arms and tell us everything is going to be all right. Sometimes they don’t and they don’t say the right things and we don’t feel any better. So we have to work it out alone and we have to solve our problems alone. Don’t feel too bad, so do they.
That ache you feel, it just means you are getting stronger. I should know. I am getting stronger and it hurts too.
Thursday, December 6, 2007
A Little Help
We all need a little help. Sometimes it's hard to ask, depending on who you have to ask. If it is a close friend then it is easier.
I needed help with my surfing. I asked a friend to take me out and help give me some tips. He was fine with it, being a family friend. So we went off to San O, his daughter as well.
As I started out he already thought my board was too small. His being a 10'6 long board and mine an 8 ft, it did seem small compared to his and his daughters'. We set out laughing and telling stories. We got down to the beach and after saying 'hey' to other surfers we got into the water. He did give me tips and I used his board, which was much easier for me to be on.
After a while I got too tired and went in to rest. I was so happy to have my good freinds help out and I watched as they caught waves and the sun was starting to set. He came back in and rested for a bit, which didn't seem unusual, but soon he asked me to call in his daughter. He didn't feel well. It took me a minute and I had to wave my towel at her to get her attention.
We got packed up quickly and another surfer next to us helped with loading the boards in. Since both of us girls are small we were greatful for the help. As we started back home he told us more of what was going on, he mentioned chest pains and kept flexing his left hand.
He resisted going to the hospital in San Clemente and Mission Viejo and finnally conceded to going to St Jude closer to his house. He was taken into surgery that night and it was a success. The fact that he has such an active life style helped so much. He will need to watch his diet and eat more salads. By the next day he was doing better than most.
Of course if worse had come to worse that day, there would have been no regrets. He had gone to church and then in the afternoon he was doing his favorite thing, surfing. The day had been gorgeous and he had been with family and friends. Not a bad way to go.
As it is there will be another day to surf.
We all need a little help, I needed help with my surfing and he needed help getting to the hospital, not a bad trade! I let him know, .........He still owes me another lesson. :-)
I needed help with my surfing. I asked a friend to take me out and help give me some tips. He was fine with it, being a family friend. So we went off to San O, his daughter as well.
As I started out he already thought my board was too small. His being a 10'6 long board and mine an 8 ft, it did seem small compared to his and his daughters'. We set out laughing and telling stories. We got down to the beach and after saying 'hey' to other surfers we got into the water. He did give me tips and I used his board, which was much easier for me to be on.
After a while I got too tired and went in to rest. I was so happy to have my good freinds help out and I watched as they caught waves and the sun was starting to set. He came back in and rested for a bit, which didn't seem unusual, but soon he asked me to call in his daughter. He didn't feel well. It took me a minute and I had to wave my towel at her to get her attention.
We got packed up quickly and another surfer next to us helped with loading the boards in. Since both of us girls are small we were greatful for the help. As we started back home he told us more of what was going on, he mentioned chest pains and kept flexing his left hand.
He resisted going to the hospital in San Clemente and Mission Viejo and finnally conceded to going to St Jude closer to his house. He was taken into surgery that night and it was a success. The fact that he has such an active life style helped so much. He will need to watch his diet and eat more salads. By the next day he was doing better than most.
Of course if worse had come to worse that day, there would have been no regrets. He had gone to church and then in the afternoon he was doing his favorite thing, surfing. The day had been gorgeous and he had been with family and friends. Not a bad way to go.
As it is there will be another day to surf.
We all need a little help, I needed help with my surfing and he needed help getting to the hospital, not a bad trade! I let him know, .........He still owes me another lesson. :-)
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