It can be hard to discribe to someone who has not been bitten by the surfing bug, what it is and how much it becomes apart of your life. It may seem silly to think that the taste of saltwater is missed and even the post-nasal drip that comes with surfing.
While I am no professional surfer and I have not been 'in-to' the sport all my life, I still have the same passion for it as anyone else. I love the ocean and feeling my board under me as I paddle out.
The time I spend at the beach one Sundays helps me to make it through the week. It helps me put things into perspective and I enjoy having some time to myself. The rest of my time is spent helping out, cooking and cleaning for others. Sunday is my time, time to get the board out and leave the troubles and worries behind.
If I could I would surf everyday and really improve my skills, but as it is my life has far more demands on my time. Not that I am upset about it, I like my life, most of the time. As I dry off after coming out of the water I read things to help me. I get ready for the next week. Letting the sun and wind wash over me.
My last vacation I had no plans to surf or was near the water. I found when I came back home I needed to get out in the water and feel the sand in my toes, right away.
As a child, you could not get me out of the water. I was always saying, "five more minutes." I have even missed meals, since I didn't notice it was time to eat. I was too worried about the next wave to catch.
Once about ten years ago I stood in the shore line and the rip current gave my leggs a massage. Ever since then I have really thought of it as therapy. Some times are parents would tell us that we needed to get some fresh air and get out of the house. It is so true and so I need to be in the ocean and get my vitamin "sea".
To me the ocean is like good friend, some one you have a close and warm relationship with. Some one that will never hurt you, and will be there for you when you need them most. (Yes, I know the implications of this statement, sometimes you can't say it with out saying it.) So this Sunday I need to go visit my good friend.
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